Photography Tip- Stock Photography - How To Counter Image Thievery

By Eric Imboden

Most photographers who come to me raise this issue at the beginning: "How can I make sure no one will steal my photographs?". There is no way to be a 100% sure that your images won't be stolen but there are a few things you can do.

On the technical side, some photographers point out that if the right-click "Save image as..." option is disabled, their images are safe. No, there are not. First, on the Mac and on Linux, this doesn't work. Second, on Windows, if you turn off Javascript, this right-click option will work. Third, any image on displayed on your web browser (FireFox, Internet Explorer) can be saved if you look at the source of the page: it doesn't take a Computer Science degree to do that.
Also, some software vendors try to sell you plugins that should solve this problem. Usually these "solutions" are quite expensive and truth is that even those most complicated software that require server-side and client-side implementations cannot prevent a screen capture. It's as simple as that. Not matter how much money/time you spend, there is no technical solution.

If reading this statement makes you anxious, please consider this: How customer-friendly do you want to be? The more protective you are of your work, the harder for your clients it will be to see it. If they have to install a plugin to see your work, they might as well go next door. Besides, I personally dislike to be treated as a thief or a threat when I go shopping: that's bad security because it scares your customers away. In other words, don't "punish" 99% of your clients because 1% of them are thieves. If you don't trust people, don't get into any business at all.

So, what can you do? First thing, be careful to what you display and where you display it. It's never a good idea to make your high-resolution photographs available for download on photo-sharing websites like Flickr. Icelandic photographer Rebekka Guoleifsdottir had a bad experience about this: her work was supposedly taken from Flick, printed and sold by some third party. This is every photographers' nightmare. Of course, you can call your lawyer but it's going to cost a lot and, in this case, the supposedly thief was located in another country making things much more difficult.
First quick fix: if you are using these services, make sure you do not upload photos larger than 500 pixels (largest side). Even if someone would take the 500 pixel wide image, he would not be able to sell it: it's too small. Using Photoshop to make it bigger would only result in a pixelated image.
Second quick fix: apply a watermark. Don't be too aggressive with the watermark because it's visually annoying. If your image is no wider than 500 pixel, there's no point in putting it in the centre: your image is already small enough and remember, you do not want to scare your customers away. On your watermark, you should display the copyright symbol, your name, and optionally a web address where to find your work.

To sum up, there's no ultimate solution about image thievery but you can take some proactive step to fight protect yourself against this. However, scaring away your customers won't do any good. In fact, don't forget that the web works differently than the "offline" world: your competitor is just a few clicks away and if someone steals one of your low-resolution image and put it on a personal website, ask him/her to delete your work or give you credit for it: they usually comply. After all, it's not a physical good: no money was lost.

Eric Imboden is passionate about stock photography. He can be seen at http://www.kumaru.com/ where he helps photographers promote their photos and sell them commission-free. He always welcomes new ideas or comments about his website or articles. Email him at: info@kumaru.com

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Photography Tip- Total Breakdown

Here's a photography tip to help professional photographers get more out of each group they shoot! This very simple technique can help you sell more pictures and substantially increase your income.

By Brandon Baumgarten

Recently, I had an appointment for a photography shoot with a wonderful family. We made plans to meet at the lake for their yearly family photo shoot. As usual I got there well before the family was scheduled to arrive so I could set up the equipment and be ready to go. The family of five and one pair of grandparents pulled up in a black Hummer. I introduced myself and as we were walking to the lake, Mrs Weber said to me I love pictures, my husband let's me buy whatever I want. Do you sell photo gifts? I got a little spring in my step and answered, "yes we have a variety of cool things like photo mugs and puzzles you can see our full selection when you order." Then she said she wanted a close-up portrait with Lake Tahoe behind her for her blog. I said, "just go with the flow!" Now I'm thinking to myself, it's time for a Total Breakdown!

• I started with a photo shoot of the entire group of seven. We did a few different poses and I shot a ton of photos. Then, I broke it down!
• I had the grandparents step out of the picture and photographed just the family of five. We had fun shooting poses for the family portrait and did some creative and traditional portrait photos. Then I broke it down again!
• I had Mr and Mrs Weber step over with the grandparents out of the picture, who by the way were throughly enjoying the entertainment, but the best was yet to come, the kids were next! They were great fun, so I got wild and crazy shots with them. We did a ton of cool shots. What now? Break it down!
• I shoot three or four quick shots of each kid. I'll do a standing full length pose. Some mid and close-up shots and something unique and different for each kid. Another breakdown? You bet! I'll keep going till they beg me to stop! Why do you think I sell so many pictures?

• I had grandma and grandpa step-back into the beautiful outdoor studio overlooking the lake. I shot a wonderful photo of the lovely couple, then breaking it down again, I photographed grandma and grandpa separately.
• Next, I had Mrs Weber join her mom and dad (grandma and grandpa) for a photo of her together with her parents.
• Now your thinking what else can you do with this? I had grandma and grandpa exit-stage-left and photographed mom by herself, remember she wanted a head-shot with the lake in it for her blog bio photo?
• Wow!!! We still don't have a shot of mom and dad together! So I have dad come over and join mom. The couple is easy to work with because now they are in sync with my flow. We capture some gorgeous pictures of them.
• I wrap up the shoot with some handsome photos of dad by himself.

I could have kept going all day, but the kids are climbing trees in their nice clothes and mom... So I call it a wrap! The key to The Total Breakdown Method is transitioning from one combination of subjects to another quickly and smoothly without interruption. With an attitude of professional confidence go from one pose to the next.

The Don't ask! Do Tell Policy states that you never ask a client if they want a break down! If you display skill and confidence, clients will allow you to do your job and take control. For instance "Mom-n-Dad, please step to the side, I'm going to get some pictures of the kids". And that's what happens. If I had asked Mrs Weber "would you like to get a photo of the kids" she may have said no, after that, I'm in the situation of getting every photo approved and I don't want Mrs Weber to decide on whether or not to get an image, until we are looking at them on the monitor on the sales floor or at our online photo sharing pro gallery!

If you use this photography technique with every group, you should see an increase in image sales. If you haven't been doing any breakdowns, the increase in photography sales could be substantial. By the way, Mr Weber slipped me a very generous, "thank you" after the family photo shoot and said I did a great job! In addition they spent well over $1000 on photos.

Brandon is a professional digital photographer from Lake Tahoe, California. Brandon specializes in on-mountain action and portrait photography during the winter months, photographing skiers and snowboarders on the slopes. Brandon also has a digital photography website which is full of excellent techniques, products and services. Including tips to help you create your own impressive online gallery, with flashy photography templates that are designed for serious photographers.

Article Source: Photography Tips

TIP- Making Money With Digital Photography And Live Events

By Richard Meredith

A few years ago I became interested in digital photography, mainly for web publishing and

personal reasons. You know, how nice is it now to NOT have to deal with film, scanning
pictures, and the costs of developing all of those "not great" photos that you didn't know were so
bad until you paid to have them developed!

So, at the time I got my first digital camera a friend of mine was playing in a rock band, and
needed pictures for their web pages and promotional printings and ads. When I first began to
do their photography, I had NO IDEA what it all would lead to... and now I will reveal to you some
of the MANY ways to make money, part-time, with your love for photography!

Now, at the clubs my friend's band played in- a lot of the time they would be in a line-up of 3
bands for the evening, of which I shot live pictures of my friend's band's performance. Then I got
another idea, I'm there already,usually to finish the night with the band, so I started to take pictures of the other bands. Afterwards, as they were breaking down their equipment, I introduced myself as the other bands photographer, and explained that I liked their music and look- and also took pictures of them also.

I got the names of the band members, jotted down notes about which instruments each one
played, and then got a mailing address to reach them. I told them that I was going to print up some proof sheets and send them off to them... all were very agreeable and willing (and why not,it doesn't cost them a thing).

Then I printed the proof sheet(s), and selected three of what I thought were the best- of which I
made a little bigger on a seperate sheet and used Photoshop to refine and enhance the images prior to printing (all on my little ink-jet printer).

I composed a form letter that I could customize for each mailing explaining details like:

- The first proof sheet was all of the raw digital images

- The second one with the larger images was digitally self enhanced

- I would professionally print any pictures they wanted for XXX cost (considering mailing costs,
printing costs at a local printing shop, labor for digital enhancement, and healthy profit margin)

- For any order I would give them a CD with ALL of the photos in digital form for them to use any
way they wanted

- Add my contact information

And finally my availability to book shootings with them in the future

Now I could personalize this form letter and send it with the proof sheets to the band, and
when I would call them about a 8 days after I made the mailing to ask them if they recieved the proof sheets and which ones they liked (and I liked)- and I simply asked for an order.

It was amazing how well this worked, and I expanded the idea.

I would go to fund-raising events, marathons, special events hosted by radio station personalities... always getting the contact information for reaching whoever is in charge of promotions and following the same system!

As you go along, you realize some other benefits to you new "business"- like free
admissions (and no club cover charges), press passes, exciting opportunities to meet
interesting people and celebrities, discount drinks, and much more! It's amazing what people will GIVE you,if you just ask!

Then there are the home-business tax deductions that are eye-opening in themselves!

As soon as you can, upgrade to more professional equipment so you can not only "play"the part, but also "look" the part. Print up business cards, and make up your own porfolio of your "best" digitally enhanced photos of all kinds of subjects and previous shootings.

Seriously, this could turn your love for digital photography into an exciting lifestyle and an
income that could surpass your present one!

But then again, I know I have only just scratched the surface with professional digital
photography, and I'm sure you now have just entered a "think-tank" that will spur many more ideas for you to make digital photography more than just a love. Make it a great life!

Richard Meredith is the Author of
"The BLACK BOOK of Online Business" -
An amazing FREE SOURCE ebook for the online business person!

http://www.straight-talkmarketing.com

Feel free to distribute or publish this article conditional only by including the by-line intact.

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Ski or Snowboard at one of the major USA Ski Resorts this winter and become an on-mountain photographer. Learn a professional workflow and skills that bring confidence.

Restoring an Old Photo

By Kenneth C. Hoffman

While browsing through a box of photos handed down to you
from a relative, you come across a studio portrait of your great
grandfather and his family. The picture is in sepia tone, the edges
are tattered and there are deep scratches across the picture. To
make matters worse, someone folded the picture to fit into a small
box producing a crease across the center of the picture.

In spite of it’s faults, you would like to enlarge the picture and
frame it for your family gallery. With a photo editor, you and your
computer can make the photo like new. First scan the photo at
400 dpi resolution. Save the file as a .tif and scan again saving as
a .jpg file. Using the JPEG file to work with, choose the clone
tool to extend the corners and to remove any marks in the photo.
The clone size should be about twice as large as the blemish and
set to fifty per cent strength. Save your work after ten or so fixes,
more depending on your RAM memory.

There are three basic methods of fixing missing or damaged areas
in the photo. The source area of the clone tool is centered over an
area similar to the missing patch but undamaged. A fifty per cent
strength (eighty five per cent for skin) clone brush used in a tapping motion will replace the damaged area. A second method drags the
clone brush and source through the damaged area for replacement.
Finally, a third method involves masking out an undamaged area that
is identical to the damaged area, making it into an object and dragging
the object to the new location for a perfect fit. Some edge blending
may be necessary. Work at the highest magnification possible for an
invisible fix.

Most difficult are problems with the nose and eyes. If one eye is undamaged, it may be possible to make an object of the eye area, flip
it left for right and replace the damaged eye. Blend the edges and use
the smoothing brushes for a natural look. Do not sharpen the eyes
too much or they will look unnatural.

When satisfied with the retouching, open the histogram to stretch the contrast to a proper level. I recommend desaturating the image and using the color balance to simulate the original sepia tone. Some editors have a special sepia tool for this purpose. For enlarging more than
two hundred per cent, I recommend using PureImage or equivalent
software to reduce artifacts, smooth out the one tone areas and sharpen
the edges. Your efforts will be well appreciated, for after all, if it weren’t
for your ancestors, you wouldn’t be here.

A retired portrait photographer, not quite as old as some pictures.

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The Rule of Thirds- Some Rules Are Meant To Be Broken, But Not This One!

By Warren Lynch

The "Rule of the Thirds" is a fundamental truth among photographers and artists. I suppose that it's not really a rule though. You can think of it more as a "guideline". So, in that case, I guess that there are times when it can be broken. Before we talk about breaking the rule, let's talk about what the rule is all about. It's tough to know when to break a rule if you don't know when to apply it.

The "Rule of Thirds" calls for you to draw imaginary lines that divide the scene into a grid of horizontal and vertical thirds. That is, you mentally "draw" two horizontal lines which divides your image equally into three rows or bands. Then you draw two vertical lines which divides your image equally into three columns. The end result is a checkerboard of nine evenly spaced squares.

Now all you have to do is compose your image so that the main elements which are the most important or interesting are placed at any of the four intersecting points of a horizontal and vertical line. Yes, you can use "any" of the four points. Which one you use will be determined by the scene you are shooting and the natural placement of the subjects in it.

Experts say that by using the lines as a guide it's easy to produce a nicely composed image that avoids the common practice of centering your subject in the middle of the shot. Since there is no intersecting pair of lines in the center of the image, it's impossible to place your subject there if you follow the rule.

Camera manufacturers aren't big supporters of the "rule" because they design their auto focus circuitry around the assumption that the subject of the photograph will always be centered in the viewfinder. So, when shooting using the Rule of Thirds, you may need to switch to manual focus if your camera refuses to focus properly.

Now that you understand the rule, let's explore the wisdom of breaking it from time to time.

An interesting result of drawing those imaginary lines is that not only do they intersect, but they also run parallel to each other. That results in a side benefit which can give you an entirely different perspective when composing certain shots.

Let's suppose you're in the desert on a clear night with a full moon and a sky full of stars. You've got nothing but a miles of white sand, glistening in the moonlight, between you and a large butte in the distance.

Instead of placing the butte at one of the intersecting points, like the rule requires, center the butte horizontally in the viewfinder and then move the camera so that you place the top third of the butte slightly above the bottom horizontal line. The result will be a dramatic dwarfing of the mountain by that magnificent night sky and a perspective that the average photographer would have never seen if it weren't for the "rule".

The nice thing about the "Rule of Thirds" is that it always works when there isn't something else that will work better. That means that if you don't have time to compose a perfect shot, you'll at least end up with one that's better than ordinary if you let the "Rule of Thirds" take over.

Have more questions about rule of thirds. This digital photography tip article is brought to you by award-winning professional photographer Warren Lynch. Exciting articles gives both beginners and advance digital camera enthusiast the leg up. With cutting-edge digital photography blogs, forum and review resources.

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How to Choose Your Photo Paper Wisely

By Ann Woods

Choosing the right paper for printing is one of the most important factors in producing great prints. Be it pictures or text, you usually just borrow what's in the copier. But the right paper makes an immense difference in print quality. To make the right choice, we must know the basics of selecting and printing on paper for general use and pictures.

• Paper Basics:
To choose the right paper for the required print keep in mind –the opacity, brightness, weight, caliper and finish. First, it is important to know what you are printing. Black and white documents are very different from full color photos. There are some multipurpose papers which are good for both. But if you want crisp, vibrant photos that will last a long time, then of course you need to use paper which is designed just for photos.

• Opacity:
This means how see-through is the paper? The more the opacity, less of the printed text will bleed through to the other side. This is especially important for double-sided prints. High opacity paper is considered good for documents such as brochures, newsletters and calendars. Photo papers have high opacity of about 94-97 usually.

• Weight:
Paper weight is expressed in pounds (lb.) or as grams per square meter (g/m2).This ranges from light weight newsprint to very heavy cardboard. Mostly quality business paper is 20 to 24 pound bond; the greeting card paper is heavier – usually in the range of 60 – 65 lb.

• Brightness:
Brightness basically means the amount of light reflected from the surface of the paper. Higher brightness will produce crisper text with better contrast and a brighter background for color and images. It is expressed in numbers 1 to 100. Photo papers have brightness number in high 90's. But then not all papers are labeled with their brightness rating. You will simply have to compare two or more papers side by side to compare their brightness.

• Caliper:
This is basically the thickness of the paper. Thickness affects its handling; whether the paper is stiffer and will resist creases and tears etc. Its unit of measure is 'mil'. Photo paper is usually 7 to 10 mils thick.

• Finish:
The finish of the paper can be matte glossy with lessening degrees of glossiness as semi-gloss, soft-gloss or satin-gloss. It is the coating on paper as glossy photo paper gives the printed photos the look and feel of photographs. Glossy papers take time in drying as the coating keeps the paper from readily absorbing the ink. However, quick dry gloss finishes are available nowadays. Mirror-like finish of high-gloss media is preferred for color photographs and smooth matte finishes for black and white photographs and business documents.

Paper has come a long way in the last decade. Choosing the right paper for printing is one of the most important decisions in creating great pictures. It is also important to know that the paper designed for your printer looks and performs better every time. The print depends upon what happens when the ink hits the paper. The wrong amount of ink can lead to jagged images that are too saturated or sometimes too light.

The synergy of ink, paper and printer is important so as to create color photos that are as bright as your memories. The latest coating technology prevents photo jams, curling and printed pages from sticking together.
Lastly, you know how sunlight damages a printed page. Special photo inks and special coating premium photo papers are available that resist the effects of indoor halogen and glowing light. You will be able to frame your photos and display them proudly as they will resist fading longer than most traditionally developed photographs.

Therefore, the right printer paper will not only give better results, it will also be more economical in the long run. There will be fewer paper jams and the output will look great every time.

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